In a 'hood riddled with tourist traps, this backstreet eatery – tucked inside a little house next to grandiose Palazzo Scanderberg – stands out. The kitchen mixes Roman classics with more contemporary options and unusually, includes a hefty number of seafood choices – the linguini alla pescatora (handmade pasta with shellfish and baby tomatoes) is sensational. Bookings essential.
Tables spill onto the quaint cobbled street in summer. Service can be abrupt but the food is so good that we tend to overlook this.