Osteria da Zi Umberto


in Trastevere & Gianicolo

If you know a joke in Italian, tell it to break through the theatrically gruff Roman exteriors of the staff at this classic local joint. Tourists often outnumber locals, but this basic trattoria still exudes authenticity. Roman standards like pasta cacio e pepe (pasta with cheese and pepper) are excellent and much recommended. In summer, tables occupy the small square.

Enjoy the limoncello most diners receive at the end of the meal. You'll know you were a hit – joke or no – if they bring you the bottle.