I Supplì

Italian in Trastevere & Gianicolo

This blink-and-you-miss-it Trastevere tavola calda ('hot table') has Roman street food down to an art. Locals queue for its namesake supplì: fried risotto balls spiked with ragù (meat and tomato sauce) and mozzarella. The sibling-run eatery also gets top marks for pizza by the slice – try the pizza rossa, with a glossy sauce of tomato, garlic, hot pepper flakes and parsley.