Flavio al Velavevodetto

Top choice roman in San Giovanni & Testaccio

The pick of Testaccio's trattorias, this casual spot is celebrated locally for its earthy, no-nonsense cucina romana (Roman cuisine). For a taste, start with carciofo alla giudia (deep-fried artichoke) before moving onto rigatoni alla carbonara (pasta tubes wrapped in a silky egg sauce spiked with morsels of cured pig's cheek) and finishing up with tiramisu.

The trattoria is housed in a Pompeian-red villa set into the side of Monte Testaccio, a man-made hill of smashed amphorae.