Flavio al Velavevodetto

Trattoria in San Giovanni & Testaccio

This cavernous trattoria is celebrated locally for its earthy, no-nonsense cucina romana (Roman cuisine). Antipasti and pastas are very good and the wine list is extremely well priced, but mains and desserts are often disappointing and foreigners are often relegated to the worst tables in the house – if you don't like where you've been seated, ask to move.

The trattoria is housed in a Pompeian-red villa set into the side of Monte Testaccio, a man-made hill of smashed amphorae.