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Pizza in Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo

In a cobbled cul-de-sac a step away from smoggy Via Nazionale, Rome’s oldest pizzeria began life as a wine bar in 1905 and its wood-panelled interior feels like it hasn’t changed much since. Pizzas are thick-based Neapolitan style (though you can get thin-based if you like) and work best with lots of toppings. Lovely canopied pavement terrace.