Sensational regional cuisine from Emilia-Romagna aside, what makes this small white-tablecloth address so outstanding is its family vibe and overwhelmingly warm service. It's been a stronghold of the Latini family since the 1930s; today son Luca runs the show with his mother Paola (dessert queen), aunt Anna (watch her making pasta each morning in the glassed-off lab) and father Massimo.
The kitchen flies the flag for Emilia-Romagna, the well-fed Italian province that has blessed the world with Parmesan, balsamic vinegar, bolognese sauce and Parma ham. Winter ushers white truffles with eggs, pasta or gooey fontina cheese onto the menu. Whatever you do, don't scrimp on dolci – Anna's warm caramelised hazelnut and walnut tart is out of this world.