Those in the know head to 'Sanca' for its basic, stuck-in-time atmosphere and cheap prices (beer from €1.50). It attracts everyone from intellectuals to keeping-it-real Romans, alcoholics and foreign students. It's famous for its chocolate – come for hot chocolate with cream in winter, and chocolate gelato in summer. Try the sambuca con la mosca ('with flies' – raw coffee beans). Expect occasional late-night jam sessions.