Testaccio is one of Rome's foodie hotspots. It’s home to some wonderful old-school trattorias, mostly specialising in traditional Roman cuisine, as well as several popular takeaways and market food stalls. Elsewhere, you'll find some surprisingly good eateries among the tourist traps southeast of the Colosseum, and several interesting new places in San Giovanni.

All About Offal

The hallmark of an authentic Roman menu is the presence of offal. The Roman love of nose-to-tail eating arose in Testaccio around the city abattoir, and many of its neighbourhood trattorias serve traditional offal-based dishes. So whether you want to avoid them or give them a go, look out for pajata (veal intestines), trippa (tripe), coda alla vaccinara (oxtail), coratella (heart, lung and liver), animelle (sweetbreads), testarella (head), lingua (tongue) and zampe (trotters).