Monti is one of Rome’s most vibrant eating and drinking neighbourhoods. The cafes, wine bars and trattorias here are casual, and there are plenty of ethnic and fast-food options. Less endearing Esquilino has a few popular local pizzerias, trattorias and bakeries – most are in the budget price range.

Mooching east into the vibrant student area of San Lorenzo, there are pizzerias, burger joints and the occasional traditional trattoria. Again, most are in the budget price range.