Few districts buzz after dark quite like Monti, a neighbourhood littered with stylish cafes, old-world enoteche (wine bars) and a slew of contemporary bars. Many of these serve decent food, too.

For edgy clubs, live music and craft beer, wander off the beaten track into the grungy student 'hood of San Lorenzo or further east into boho Pigneto, a gritty district known for its alternative nightlife.