With kicking clubs, suave wine bars and cafes full of old-timers, this area has most tastes covered. There are two main nightlife districts: Testaccio, which is home to a string of bars and clubs catering to cocktail lovers, craft-beer fans and weekend partygoers, and the area around Via di San Giovanni in Laterano. This hosts a more mellow scene centred on wine bars and a couple of popular gay-friendly nightspots.

Local Knowledge: Gay Street

The bottom end of Via di San Giovanni in Laterano, the sloping street that runs from the Basilica di San Giovanni to near the Colosseum, is a favourite haunt of Rome's gay community. In the evenings, bars like Coming Out and My Bar burst into life, attracting large crowds of mostly gay men.