First of all, a warning: owner Celeste’s homemade limoncello has more alcohol in it than most – her coffee is excellent too. In her 80s, she’s a gem, and also makes all the breakfast preserves and cakes. Son Marco is behind the tasteful restoration of the 17th-century rooms, attractively furnished with bright tilework and dark-wood furniture.

If you have a choice, go for room five with its atmospheric vaulted ceiling.