You'll need to venture across the river to Oltretorrente for a traditional Parmigiano experience untainted by the city's influx of culinary tourism. Classy yet unpretentious, father and son duo Corrado and Daniele Cocchi woo you with tradition at this top restaurant.
Anolini in brodo (round pasta pockets stuffed with beef and parmigiano reggiano in broth) or trio di tortelli (a sampler of square pasta pockets stuffed with ricotta and spinach, pumpkin and potato with Fragno black truffles) – choosing is so painful – and secondi specials like sea bass on a bed of blanched artichokes and a touch of olive oil are the reason you have come to Parma. Between October and mid-April, its all about bolliti – seven mixed boiled meats served from a traditional cart with numerous sauces. They've been at it since 1925.