Crossing the Nebrodi Mountains
Several charming routes wind across the Nebrodi ranges, weaving through tiny mountain hamlets and steep, forested slopes. The SS116 starts at Capo d'Orlando on the coast and climbs to Floresta (1275m), the highest village in the park, where you can stop for local olives, cheeses and meats at Alimentari Giuseppe Calabrese on the main square. From here, the road makes a spectacular descent to Randazzo, with unforgettable views of Mt Etna.
Cutting through the heart of the park is the enchanting SS289, which links Sant'Agata di Militello with Cesarò in the interior. Along the route is San Fratello, a typical Nebrodi town originally founded by Roger I's third wife, Adelaide di Monferrato, for her Lombard cousins (hence the strange local dialect).
If you're coming from the Monti Madonie, a pretty highland route into the Nebrodi is the SS120. Starting from Petralia Sottana, head east through the gorgeous hill towns of Gangi, Sperlinga and Nicosia, then turn north on the SS117 to Mistretta. The landscape is especially picturesque in springtime, when the high rolling hills are covered in wildflowers. On clear days, there are good distant views of Mt Etna to the southeast.