in Palermo

Expect sharp professionals and serious gastronomes at Gagini's rustic, candlelit tables. In the kitchen are Massimiliano Mandozzi and Elnava De Rosa, whose passion for season, region and fresh thinking might offer a Sicilian twist on the kebab, a playful take on classic pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines), or seafood unexpectedly paired with cracked wheat and hazelnuts. Book ahead.