Trattoria Mangia e Bevi

Neapolitan in Centro Storico

Gigi Grasso's loud and lively Eat & Drink sees everyone from pierced students to bespectacled professori squeeze around the communal tables for delicious home cooking at rock-bottom prices. Scan the daily-changing menu, jot down your choices and prepare yourself for classic hits like grilled provola, earthy salsiccia (pork sausage) and peperoncino-spiked friarielli (local broccoli).

The casareccio bread is crunchy perfection and best washed down with a plastic cup of vino.