Pastries in Toledo & Quartieri Spagnoli

Of Neapolitan dolci (sweets), the cream of the crop is the sfogliatella, a flaky-pastry shell filled with sweat, cinnamon-spiced ricotta. This local institution has been selling superlative sfogliatelle since the early 1800s, when its founder supposedly brought them to Naples from their culinary birthplace on the Amalfi Coast. The pastry comes in two versions: frolla (shortcrust pastry) and riccia (filo-style pastry).