Osteria della Mattonella

Neapolitan in Toledo & Quartieri Spagnoli

In Italian, mattonella means tile, an apt name for this classic Neapolitan osteria, its walls clad in 18th-century majolica tiles. Matriarch Antonietta has been running the place since 1978, her faithful regulars here for comforting, home-cooked classics. The primi (first courses) are particularly notable, from the ragù and pasta e provola to a nourishing lentil and broccoli zuppa (soup).

Leave room for the polpette (meat balls) and a delicious rendition of zucchine alla scapece (fried zucchini with garlic, vinegar and fresh mint). The house wine is notoriously hit-and-miss, so consider getting a bottle from the wine list instead.