La Masardona

Neapolitan in Centro Storico

Naples' remarkably light pizza fritta – deep-fried pizza dough traditionally stuffed with pork cicoli (dried lard cubes), salami, provola, ricotta and tomato – is best savoured at this legendary joint. Most regulars order it senza ricotta (without ricotta) and wash it down with sweet marsala wine. Other versions include numerous vegetarian combos. The snack-sized version (known as battilocchio) is actually quite generous.

On Tuesday, owner Enzo also serves his famous tortaniello (€4.50), a lip-smacking, oven-baked pie packed with pecorino (sheep's milk cheese), salami, cicoli and hard-boiled egg.