The key to happiness? Balmy nights, sea breezes and impeccable seafood. You're guaranteed at least the last two at this stylish veteran, with its dolce vita terrace and softly lit interior. Here, culinary clichés make way for gems such as cecinielle (fried fish patties), minestra in brodo (thick noodle broth) and seppie con uva passa (baby squid with pine nuts and raisins).