Da Ettore

Neapolitan in Santa Lucia & Chiaia

Its name in green neon, this wood-panelled octogenarian celebrates tradition with quick-witted veteran waiters, faithful regulars and a roaming Neapolitan busker. The genovese (pasta with slow-cooked onion) here is legendary, with other notable options including the barbecued meats and the pagnottiello, pizza dough filled with the likes of parmigiana di melanzane (eggplant parmigiana).

Da Ettore also serves wood-fired, ’70s-style Neapolitan pizzas, called so because of their smaller size and more rustic toppings. Whatever you chow, wrap things up with a glass of spirited Nocillo, a harder-to-find liqueur made with walnuts traditionally harvested on the night of St John (June 24).