Nonna Anna may have gone to the great kitchen in the sky, but her loud, tiled lunch spot kicks on. Hidden at the back of a market arcade, Cibi Cotti serves simple Neapolitan home-cooking and bargain prices. Place your order at the counter while keeping an eye out for a table; staffer Enzo speaks English so seek him out.
The day's offerings are written on a blackboard as well as on Cibi Cotti's Facebook page. Top picks include any of the legume dishes (including the pasta e fagioli), as well as the slow-cooked ragù. Once fed, pay at the counter by the entrance. For a less chaotic experience, avoid the place between 1pm and 2pm.