So you thought a sfogliatella from Pintauro was crispy perfection? Bite into the piping-hot ricotta filling at this retro pastry pedlar and prepare to reassess. But why stop there with so many trays of treats, from creamy cannolli siciliani to a runny, rummy babà? Savoury fiends shouldn't pass up the hearty pasticcino rustico, stuffed with provola cheese, ricotta and salami.