Located outside the city walls until the 18th century, La Sanità was for centuries where the city buried its dead. These days, its noisy, rough-and-tumble jumble of bassi (one-room, ground-floor houses), market stalls and baroque staircases pull an ever-growing number of resident artists and bohemians, drawn to the neighbourhood's rich textures and raw, authentic energy. Following in their lead is an ever-increasing number of plugged-in travellers, on the hunt for frescoed catacombs and secret artisan studios. To the north lies Capodimonte, a former royal hunting ground famed for its art-crammed palace.