Introduction

The centro storico (historic centre) is the loud, pounding heart of Naples, a dizzying rush of bellowing baristas, cultish shrines and operatic palazzi (mansions). Almost 3000 years old, its ancient warren of alleys and squares claim many of the city's most spectacular cultural assets, from frescoed chapels and cloisters to cultish shrines and chariot-grooved subterranean streets. It's also where you'll find many of its top pizzerias and eateries, its most boho-spirited bars, and no shortage of artisan studios to browse and shop. Take a deep breath and dive right in.