Set in the basement of the grand-looking neoclassical Palazzo Belgioioso, Milan's oldest restaurant has been regaling diners since 1696. Vaulted dining rooms and service reminiscent of more regal times lend your evening meal a sense of theatre. From crespelle al prosciutto (a kind of cross between pasta and crêpe with ham) you might move on to a trancio di salmone al pepe verde (slice of salmon with green pepper).