Gualtiero Marchesi, Italy’s most revered chef, presides over a traditional dining room in that other Milanese institution, La Scala. Chairs upholstered in deep crimson evoke the neighbouring concert hall, as do musical notes cascading across white china. The menu is similarly traditional: baccala with baked polenta, Vitello Tonnato and saffron risotto served with a garnish of real gold-leaf.