Two Michelin-star chef Carlo Cracco keeps the Milanese in thrall with his off-the-wall inventiveness. The risotto al sedano, rapa, tartufo nero e caffè (risotto with celery, turnip, black truffle and coffee) is unlike any northern Italian rice dish you may have stumbled across elsewhere. Let the waiters do the thinking by ordering one of the tasting menus (€130 and €160).