The intimate, tight-knit centre of Mantua is like an al fresco architectural museum – the interlocking piazzas a series of medieval and Renaissance rooms, comprising from north to south: Piazza Sordello, Piazza Broletto, Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza Mantegna. All four are packed solid with market stalls at the weekends and come early evening, waves of promenading Mantuans ebb and flow between them.