The lake views from the terrace at hillside Vecchia Malcesine do their best to upstage the food. But the Michelin-starred menu wins; its exquisitely presented, creative dishes might include trout with horseradish, smoked caviar and white chocolate, or risotto with lake fish, apple and raspberry.
Five-course menus (€75–80) focus on earth or sea ingredients, or you can put yourself in the chef's hands for a six-course surprise (€110). Inevitably, the dessert offerings are sublime.
The restaurant is well signposted, but hard to find. Don't try to drive to the gates as you'll get stuck in the narrow lanes.