From the train station, head north about 300m to Piazza Castello. The castle alluded to is largely gone, except for a tall round tower built on Francesco Sforza's orders. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II leads another 300m into the enormous, cobbled Piazza della Vittoria, fronted by the La Basilica Cattedrale della Vergine Assunta, Palazzo Comunale (Town Hall) and multicoloured houses atop sheltering porticoes. Through an arch on the cathedral's left flank you reach shady Piazza Mercato, tucked behind the duomo's haughty triple apse.

Lodi's real gem lies about 50m away on Via Incoronata. Here you'll find the grand 15th-century Tempio Civico dell'Incoronata.