Mercato Centrale

Market in Livorno

The largest covered market in Italy, this 95m-long neoclassical building miraculously survived Allied WWII bombing. Arresting both gastronomically and architecturally, it has a particularly impressive fish hall that has recently undergone a sensitive restoration. Famed Italian painter Amedeo Modigliani (1184–1920) once had an atelier on the upper floor (now offices).

After wandering the aisles, enjoy lunch, a snack or an aperitivo at the excellent Alle Vettovaglie. Other businesses to investigate include coffee roaster Torrefazione Caffè San Paulo, gluten-free bakery Manalù and pasta shop Pastificio Chiesa Valerio. The latter is known for its gold-leaf-filled pasta, which sells internationally for over €200 per piece. Bizarre.