Antica Torteria Al Mercato da Gagarin

Top choice sandwiches in Livorno

There is no finer blast to old-world Livorno than this retro snack bar, little changed since its 1959 opening. Push through the plastic fly net veiling the unmarked door and order the house speciality: a sensational '5 & 5' sandwich (ask for a 'cinque e cinque') stuffed with scrumptious torta di ceci (chickpea pancake, fried in peanut oil and salted).

When ordering choose between bread or focaccia, and also consider adding a slice of aubergine (melanzane) marinated in a ginger, garlic and olive oil 'pesto' of sorts.

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