Restaurants

Top Choice Tuscan in Livorno

Alle Vettovaglie

Owned by three sommeliers, this wine bar in the historic Mercato Centrale has a menu that changes according to what produce is fresh and plentiful on the day – it's just as likely to feature triglie alla Livornese (…
Top Choice Osteria in Livorno

La Barrocciaia

Locals speak of La Barrocciaia with great fondness – partly because of a homely interior that’s alive with banter, but also because of its simple but flavour-packed food. Stews fluctuate between wild boar and cacciu…
Top Choice Tuscan in Livorno

Cantina Nardi

They've been in business since 1965, so the friendly Nardis know how to keep their customers happy. As much an enoteca as Slow Food–hailed eatery, Cantina Nardi has a 400-bottle wine list (an amazing 100 wines are o…
Top Choice Sweets in Livorno

Antica Friggitoria

It's rare to encounter a Livornese who isn't a fan of the delectable frati (doughnuts) and scagliozzi (fried polenta) that have been made at this simple place on the city's major market square since 1920. In the lea…
Top Choice Sandwiches in Livorno

Antica Torteria Al Mercato Da Gagarin

There's only one treat on offer here: a simply sensational sandwich known as a cinque e cinque (five and five) that is filled with scrumptious torta di ceci (chickpea pancake). When ordering, choose between bread or…
Top Choice Gelato in Livorno

Gelateria Populare 2

Many locals stop at this local institution for a sugar hit after enjoying a late-afternoon passeggiata (stroll) on the Terrazza Mascagni, and we strongly recommend you do the same. Made fresh each day, its gelato is…
Market in Livorno

Mercato Centrale

The largest covered market in Italy, this 95m-long neoclassical building miraculously survived Allied WWII bombing. Arresting both gastronomically and architecturally, it has a particularly impressive fish hall that…
American in Livorno

Surfer Joe's Diner

What a burst of dynamism this zesty surf bar attached to Livorno's aquarium adds to the city's drinking and dining scene. American burgers, onion rings, pancakes and smoothies form its culinary core; 1950s diner is …
Seafood in Livorno

Osteria del Mare

The list of secondi is almost purely fish at this smart old-world osteria near the water. The traditional, home-style cooking lures the punters: many opt for the signature riso nero (black rice) with the catch of th…
Osteria in Livorno

Cantina Senese

Harbour workers are the first to fill the long wooden tables at this wonderfully unpretentious eatery, with other locals following close behind. Ordering is frequently done via faith in your server, rather than by m…