Osteria in Tigullio & Baia del Levante

It really is worth stopping in to centuries-old Luchin to sample its peerless farinata (chickpea flour flat bread), baked over olive wood in copper pans. Modestly they’ll say they don’t serve anything ‘unique’, just authentic Genovese dishes. But see for yourself when you slurp the pesto-scented minestrone (simmered for three hours) or bite into the raisin-sweet chestnut-flour tart with fennel seeds.

Afterwards, pack your bags with as many goodies as you can from the deli counter.