in Santa Croce

This hipster cafe-bookshop – a hybrid dining-aperitivo address – cooks up inventive, home-style and strictly vegetarian and/or vegan cuisine. Its decor is recycled vintage with the occasional kid's drawing thrown in for that intimate homey touch; the vibe is artsy. Lunchtime ushers in a fantastic-value piatto unico (€15) comprising your choice of three dishes served on a single plate.

Dine at the front-room bar, in the interior courtyard strung with recycled art, or around a candlelit table between bookshelves in the back dining room. Reserve in advance at weekends. Brac can be tricky to find – there is no sign outside, just an inconspicuous doorway a block back from the river with a jumble of books in the window.