The oldest osteria in the world (according to Guinness), this scruffy-meets-stylish wine bar was already an established drinking den in 1435. Titian drank here, while the soon-to-be Pope John Paul II dropped by 550 years later. Succinct pasta dishes (meals €15 to €50) are well supplemented by wine drawn from racks that are thick with a healthy coating of Ferrara dust.