Trattoria Bertozzi

Top choice Emilian

in Bologna

Often touted as Bologna's best restaurant by in-the-know culinarians – especially locals – this unassuming neighbourhood trattoria is both a rousing good-time and a deeply serious dive into Bologna's famed specialities. It's run by a jovial pair who excel as much with hospitality and wine-swilling as they do with tagiliatelle al ragù, meatballs with peas, and gramigna pasta with saffron, guanciale (cured pork cheeks) and zucchini.

Come to escape tourists, but not sport fans (on local game days, it becomes party HQ for superfans). It's located 2km west of Piazza Maggiore in Quartiere Saragozza. Reserve.