Top things to do

Top Choice Archaeological Site in Golfo di Baratti

Parco Archeologico di Baratti e Populonia

The Etruscan sites on display here are some of Tuscany's finest. Four marked walking trails lead through a vast green park, revealing a ruined town and well-preserved prehistoric tombs. The gigantic circular tumulus…
Top Choice Christian Site in Livorno

Santuario della Madonna di Montenero

The story goes like this: in 1345, the Virgin Mary appeared to a shepherd, who led her to black mountain (monte nero), a haven of brigands. Needless to say, the brigands immediately saw the error of their ways and b…
Top Choice Museum in Portoferraio

Museo Villa Napoleonica di San Martino

Napoleon personally supervised the transformation of what had been a large farmhouse in the hills 5km southwest of Portoferraio into an elegant villa where he could escape the summer heat. Romanticism and hubris bot…
Top Choice Tuscan in Livorno

Alle Vettovaglie

Owned by three sommeliers, this wine bar in the historic Mercato Centrale has a menu that changes according to what produce is fresh and plentiful on the day – it's just as likely to feature triglie alla Livornese (…
Top Choice Tuscan in Suvereto

Osteria di Suvereto da I'Ciocio

Worthy recipient of a Slow Food accolade (the only Suvereto eatery so honoured), this osteria opposite the handsome 13th-century palazzo comunale (town hall) has a beautiful terrace lined by honey-coloured stone wal…
Top Choice Osteria in Livorno

La Barrocciaia

Locals speak of La Barrocciaia with great fondness – partly because of a homely interior that’s alive with banter, but also because of its simple but flavour-packed food. Stews fluctuate between wild boar and cacciu…
Top Choice Tuscan in Bolgheri

Enoteca Tognoni

This wine-lined enoteca is a temple to taste, both gastronomic and oenological. Sassicaia (€28 per 100mL) is among dozens of local wines available to sample – others are more affordable. The menu is limited but dele…
Top Choice Tuscan in Livorno

Cantina Nardi

They've been in business since 1965, so the friendly Nardis know how to keep their customers happy. As much an enoteca as Slow Food–hailed eatery, Cantina Nardi has a 400-bottle wine list (an amazing 100 wines are o…
Top Choice Sweets in Livorno

Antica Friggitoria

It's rare to encounter a Livornese who isn't a fan of the delectable frati (doughnuts) and scagliozzi (fried polenta) that have been made at this simple place on the city's major market square since 1920. In the lea…
Top Choice Tuscan in Bolgheri

Enoteca de Centro

When a wine bar is as friendly as this, the fact that it also serves great food comes as a delightful surprise. Michele Innocenti is a genial host and expert on local wine, and he will gladly guide you in a tasting …