Restaurants

Top Choice Tuscan in Livorno

Alle Vettovaglie

Owned by three sommeliers, this wine bar in the historic Mercato Centrale has a menu that changes according to what produce is fresh and plentiful on the day – it's just as likely to feature triglie alla Livornese (…
Top Choice Tuscan in Suvereto

Osteria di Suvereto da I'Ciocio

Worthy recipient of a Slow Food accolade (the only Suvereto eatery so honoured), this osteria opposite the handsome 13th-century palazzo comunale (town hall) has a beautiful terrace lined by honey-coloured stone wal…
Top Choice Osteria in Livorno

La Barrocciaia

Locals speak of La Barrocciaia with great fondness – partly because of a homely interior that’s alive with banter, but also because of its simple but flavour-packed food. Stews fluctuate between wild boar and cacciu…
Top Choice Tuscan in Bolgheri

Enoteca Tognoni

This wine-lined enoteca is a temple to taste, both gastronomic and oenological. Sassicaia (€28 per 100mL) is among dozens of local wines available to sample – others are more affordable. The menu is limited but dele…
Top Choice Tuscan in Livorno

Cantina Nardi

They've been in business since 1965, so the friendly Nardis know how to keep their customers happy. As much an enoteca as Slow Food–hailed eatery, Cantina Nardi has a 400-bottle wine list (an amazing 100 wines are o…
Top Choice Sweets in Livorno

Antica Friggitoria

It's rare to encounter a Livornese who isn't a fan of the delectable frati (doughnuts) and scagliozzi (fried polenta) that have been made at this simple place on the city's major market square since 1920. In the lea…
Top Choice Tuscan in Bolgheri

Enoteca de Centro

When a wine bar is as friendly as this, the fact that it also serves great food comes as a delightful surprise. Michele Innocenti is a genial host and expert on local wine, and he will gladly guide you in a tasting …
Top Choice Sandwiches in Livorno

Antica Torteria Al Mercato Da Gagarin

There's only one treat on offer here: a simply sensational sandwich known as a cinque e cinque (five and five) that is filled with scrumptious torta di ceci (chickpea pancake). When ordering, choose between bread or…
Top Choice Tuscan in Schiopparello, Magazzini & Otone

Ristoro Agricolo Montefabbrello

A model of slow and sustainable cuisine, this rustic restaurant on the Montefabbrello farm grows its own wheat to make pasta, grapes to make wine and olives to produce oil. Fruit and veggies are homegrown too. Tasty…
Top Choice Seafood in Marciana Marina, Marciana & Poggio

Ristorante Salegrosso

Those on the hunt for Elba's best fish dish need look no further – the fish stew here is a flavoursome pile of shellfish, tomato and saffron topped by a garlicky slice of bruschetta. Delicious! Dine on it or other f…