in Catania

Pub-like Ostello personifies Catania: grungy, youthful and arty. Hunker down among students, professors and backpackers for decent bulgur-and-vegetable patties, couscous, burgers, pizzas (except on Tuesday) and polished pasta dishes. There's even a lunchtime vegan menu on Sundays (€15). You'll find the best table for two downstairs in a natural grotto, complete with gurgling stream (book it in advance).

DJs hit the decks regularly, with live jazz on Thursday evenings.