The most memorable place to lunch is in the hamlet of Colonnata, 2km from the Fantiscritti quarries, where one of Tuscany's greatest gastronomic treats, lardo di colonnata (thinner-than-wafer-thin slices of aromatic pig fat) sits ageing in marble vats of herby olive oil. Once you're hooked, purchase a vacuum-packed slab (€15 per kilogram) to take home from one of the many larderie (shops selling lardo) in the village.