Eating

The hilltop town's specialities are earthy and rustic. Look out for pasta cu maccu (with puréed fava beans), pasta chi mirangiani (with eggplant and salted ricotta) and piruna (calzoni filled with spinach and other vegetables). Come Christmas, tuck into cuddureddi ri Natali (shortcrust pastry filled with sweet, dense vincotto, almonds or honey).