Agania has been around for years and her fare is die-hard traditional – the tripe and grifi con polenta (lambs' cheeks with polenta) are sensational. But it is timeless, welcoming addresses like this, potted fresh herbs on the doorstep, that remain the cornerstone of Tuscan dining. Begin with antipasto misto (mixed appetisers) followed by your choice combo of six pastas and eight sauces.

Agania's pici (fat spaghetti) with wild boar sauce is legendary. Arrive by 1pm to beat the crowd of regulars or join the crowd waiting outside.