Part of the Ceretto family's small empire, La Piola offers a faithful menu of traditional Piedmontese dishes but at the same time manages to be stylish, modern and relaxed (let's put it down to sprezzatura – the Italian art of studied nonchalance), with a kitchen overseen by one of Italy's most respected chefs, Enrico Crippa, from gastronomic Piazza Duomo upstairs.
Expect wonderful produce – the vegetables and herbs all come from the Cerettos' own garden – and technique, along with a sense-grabbing flair. Engaged young staff and great contemporary artwork (including specially commissioned 'show' plates) make the experience a special one. Don't miss their version of vitello tonnato (sliced cold veal and tuna sauce) and bonet (chocolate pudding): both the apotheosis of their respective genres. Check the website for details of their monthly dinners that celebrate Piedmontese classics often too difficult to do for single diners.