With its famously unpredictable weather, it can be tough to decide the best time to visit Ireland. The good news is that whatever month you decide to go, you'll have lots of things to do.

With stunning scenery, cozy pubs and a great food culture, there are plenty of highlights to suit every traveler. Here’s our guide to help you decide the perfect time to visit Ireland.

Editor's note: During COVID-19, please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and always follow government health advice. Events may be subject to change.

High Season: June to September

Best time for exploring the outdoors

Sunny weather in Ireland is never guaranteed but you’ll have the most luck in the long days of summer. At the height of the solstice in June, there are 17 hours of daylight, giving you lots of time for a jam-packed itinerary and to spend exploring the scenic countryside by road or by going on long hikes.

Along with the surge of tourists comes a surge in prices and in August in particular accommodation rates will be at their highest. Hotspots like Dublin, Kerry and along the southern and western crowds can feel crowded.

Shoulder Season: Easter to May, mid-September to October

Best time for photographers

For the best of both worlds, the shoulder season is often the smart traveler's choice. Ireland can enjoy surprisingly good weather in May and warm ‘Indian summers’ often happen in September (to the dismay of generations of Irish schoolchildren).

It’s easier and cheaper to source accommodation and everywhere from pubs and restaurants to hiking trails will be a bit more relaxed. Photographers can easily snap the perfect idyllic landscape shot during this time.

Low Season: November to Easter

Best time for budget travelers

Accommodation is (relatively) cheap and the best parts of Irish social life – gigs, pubs and clubs – are still in full swing making it the perfect time to get cozy indoors. In cities, all the big attractions operate as normal and you won’t need to worry about battling tourist crowds. The winter weather can be cold and wet but Ireland does not normally get extreme temperatures so you should still be able to travel around the country.

In the countryside, some tourist attractions and restaurants close for the winter season. Daylight hours are short and the chance of fog means your outdoor exploration will be a bit more limited; in December the sun rises at 8.30am and sets at 4pm.

January

The quietest month of the year, a lull from the holiday festivities as the country gets back to work.
Key events: Temple Bar Tradfest.

February

The perfect month for indoor activities. Some museums launch new exhibits, and it's a good time to visit the major towns and cities.
Key events: Dublin International Film Festival, Six Nations Rugby.

March

Spring is in the air, and the whole country is getting ready for what is arguably the world's most famous parade. Dublin is the biggest, but every town in Ireland holds one.
Key events: St Patrick’s Day.

April

The weather is getting better, the flowers are beginning to bloom and the festival season begins anew. Seasonal attractions start to open up around the middle of the month or at Easter.
Key events: Circuit of Ireland International Rally, Irish Grand National, World Irish Dancing Championships.

May

The May Bank Holiday (on the first Monday) sees the first of the busy summer weekends as the Irish take to the roads to enjoy the budding good weather.
Key events: Cork International Choral Festival, Fleadh Nua, Cathedral Quarter Arts Festival, Listowel Writers' Week.

June

The bank holiday at the beginning of the month sees the country spoilt for choice for things to do. Weekend traffic gets busier as the weather gets better.
Key events: Cat Laughs Comedy Festival, Dublin LGBTQ Pride, Irish Derby, Bloomsday, Cork Midsummer Festival, Mourne International Walking Festival.

July

There isn't a weekend in the month that a major festival doesn't take place, while visitors to Galway will find that the city is in full swing for the entire month.
Key events: Willie Clancy Summer School, Galway International Arts Festival, Longitude, Folkfest, All-Ireland Finals.

August

Ireland is in holiday mode. Seaside towns and tourist centers are at their busiest as the country looks to make the most of its time off.
Key events: Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann, Galway Race Week, Puck Fair, Rose of Tralee, Kilkenny Arts Festival.

September

Summer may be over, but September weather can be surprisingly good, so it's often the ideal time to enjoy the last vestiges of the sun as the crowds dwindle.
Key events: Galway International Oyster & Seafood Festival, Dublin Fringe Festival.

October

The weather starts to turn cold, so it's time to move the fun indoors again. The calendar is still packed with activities and distractions, especially over the last weekend of the month.
Key events: Dublin Theatre Festival, Cork Jazz Festival, Belfast International Arts Festival.

November

A quiet month, the calm before the storm of socializing in December.
Key events: Kilkenomics Festival, Rugby Internationals.

December

Christmas dominates the calendar as the country prepares for the feast with frenzied shopping and after-work drinks with friends and family home from abroad. On Christmas Day nothing is open.
Key events: Christmas markets will be open in most cities, towns and villages.

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The best time to go to Ireland

When Ian Ryan lived in Ireland’s Cork city, he could always get a decent pint of Guinness. But on emigrating to London three years ago, he found himself searching in vain for a well-poured glass of the black stuff.

Sometimes his drink had too much or too little of the white creamy head.  Then there were bleak, moribund pints that carried with them an air of tragedy. Nightlife in London was defined by bad Guinness.

Ian began sending photos to friends in Ireland. The rumors, he told them, are true – Guinness is not as good off the island. “There was always a running joke, especially when you’re hanging out with a load of English lads and they’re like ‘oh, is that a good one there?’, and you’re like ‘no’ every time,” he says.

In late 2019, Ian founded the sardonic shitlondonguinness, an Instagram account documenting terrible pints served in England’s capital. Almost immediately, the page attracted thousands of supporters; Ian’s messages were overflowing. ShitLondonGuinness receives 30 to 40 DMs from London alone every Friday, when pubs are open. People all over the world take part as well, from Canada to New Zealand. Last year, an audience of millions learnt of the scourge of bad pints when the Northern Irish actor Jamie Dornan namedropped shitlondonguinness on the Graham Norton Show. The result was around 30,000 new followers in one weekend.

What makes a good pint of Guinness?

A brief explanation: Guinness requires attention and care. The drink should be poured in two parts. First the glass is held at a 45-degree angle until it is just over three quarters full. Then it’s placed to one side to settle; after that it’s topped up while vertical. Things won’t taste right unless the keg is in regular use, with the correct gas pressure. Bar staff who don’t serve a lot of Guinness often aren’t aware of this, which can unfortunately result in the bad pints seen online.

What makes a bad pint of Guinness?

One traumatised drinker, who chose to remain anonymous, saw large plastic pitchers filled with Guinness in a Bremen bar. When Cormac Ahearn visited New York a few years ago, an Italian restaurant served him a tepid affair in a 300ml receptacle, rather than the regulation 567ml pint glass. Rebecca Carrone was mortified by the mixture of Guinness and Kilkenny ale sold by her employer. The name of the drink? A Black and Tan, deriving from a class of infamous British soldiers posted in Ireland during the 1920s.

Contributors to shitlondonguinness are often Irish. Ian pauses for a moment, reflecting on why bad Guinness bothers Ireland: “There’s a part of the Irish psyche where you feel downtrodden and you can consider it nearly a sin against your Irish roots to see a bad pint,” he reflects.

How do I find a good pint of Guinness?

A memorable drink is often about more than taste or presentation. For Guinness Global Head of Quality at St. James's Gate, Steve Gilsenan, pints are always better to an Irish person when they are sitting in a bar in Ireland. The best pints are associated with events, or certain moments. “The Guinness that goes into the can is exactly the same beer – but I would never say it’s the same experience as the pub...,” he explains. “Because it’s not; you’re not in the pub, you’re at home in your living room.”

Bad pints necessitate the existence of good pints, which are abundant, if you know where to look. ShitLondonGuinness has a popular sister account, beautifulpints. While debate about what makes a good pint of Guinness can be contentious, Gilsenan says this is positive: it means drinkers are enthusiastic about the black stuff. That’s certainly true among the Irish – about 90% of the drinks featured in beautifulpints are from Ireland.

Why do Irish people love Guinness?

“What I’ve loved about the job traveling the world is that everyone has an opinion on it; everyone has a view. And particularly Irish [people],” he says. “If you’re going out with two people and they drink Guinness, they will determine where you drink.”

Why do so many Irish people feel a kind of ownership over Guinness? Marketing aside, the company is embedded in the architecture of Ireland’s capital; Guinness built hundreds of houses across Dublin for its employees, many of which still stand today. Yet surely other parts of the world have equal claim to the stout. The UK and Nigeria consume more Guinness than Ireland.

In a 2003 paper for the New Hibernia Review, Pure Genius: Guinness Consumption and Irish Identity, Brenda Murphy says that Guinness has achieved something no typical advertising campaign could dream of: an assigned social history. “It is woven into the fabric of the community and embedded in the daily lives of the consumers and others,” she writes.

Really, Ireland’s fixation with the perfect pint of Guinness is a type of harmless soft nationalism, according to satirist and podcaster Blindboy Boatclub. This is especially common among the diaspora or emigrants, who take pride in promoting products associated with their homeland.

“The idea that the actual quality of Guinness outside of Ireland is drastically different to what you get at home is something we lean into a bit as an act of performance,” says Blindboy, whose work often discusses Irish identity. “In the absence of a national food culture, a pint of plain is your only man.”

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Everything you’ve heard is true: Ireland is a stunner. Locals will argue over the must-sees, but you can't go wrong if you put the brooding loneliness of Connemara, the dramatic wildness of Donegal, the majestic cliffs of Moher and the celebrated Causeway Coast in Northern Ireland on your to-visit list. Here are the top 10 natural wonders of Ireland.

Editor's note: Please check the latest travel restrictions before planning any trip and always follow government advice.

Giant’s Causeway

This spectacular rock formation – Northern Ireland 's only Unesco World Heritage site – is one of Ireland's most impressive and atmospheric landscape features, a vast expanse of regular, closely packed, hexagonal stone columns looking for all the world like the handiwork of giants.

The phenomenon is explained in the Giant's Causeway Visitor Experience, housed in a state-of-the-art, eco-friendly building half-hidden in the hillside above the sea. Visiting the Giant's Causeway itself is free of charge but you pay to use the car park on a combined ticket with the visitor center; parking-only tickets aren't available.

Cliffs of Moher

In good visibility, the Cliffs of Moher (Aillte an Mothair, or Ailltreacha Mothair), located in western Clare, are staggeringly beautiful. The entirely vertical cliffs rise to a height of 214m (702ft), their edge abruptly falling away into a ceaselessly churning Atlantic.

In a progression of vast heads, the dark sandstone and siltstone strata march in a rigid formation. Views stretch to the Aran Islands and the hills of Connemara. Sunsets here see the sky turn a kaleidoscope of amber, amethyst, rose pink and deep garnet red.

One of Ireland's blockbuster sights, it includes a high-tech visitor center, a 19th-century lookout tower and a wealth of walking trails. Visiting by boat can bring the best views.

Dun Briste

An astonishing sea stack that's lashed by foaming sea, Dun Briste is Mayo's top natural sight. Legend attests that St Patrick drove all the vipers from Ireland onto the stack on Downpatrick Head, leaving the mainland snake-free. Try to choose a clear day for a visit to amplify the visuals. You can drive most of the way up to the sea edge, but then you'll need to walk the last 400m (1312ft) or so. Dun Briste is 6km (3.7mi) northeast of Ballycastle.

The sea stack was shorn from the mainland in 1393 by a severe storm that left poor unfortunates stranded upon it (later rescued). Indeed, the remains of buildings survive on the stack to this day.

A viewing area has been constructed by a huge blowhole set back slightly from the cliff edge. It has numerous plaques detailing the history and folklore of the area. During storms, seawater is dramatically blasted through the blowhole.

Sliabh Liag

The Cliffs of Moher get more publicity, but the cliffs of Sliabh Liag (Slieve League) in Southwestern Donegal are higher (and free). In fact, these spectacular sea cliffs are among the highest in Europe, plunging some 600m (1969ft) to the ceaselessly churning sea.

From Teelin, a road through the stark landscape leads to the lower car park (with hiking signs) beside a gate in the road; drive another 1.5km (0.93mi) to the upper car park (often full in summer) right beside the viewpoint (close the gate though).

Gap of Dunloe

The Gap of Dunloe in the Killarney Region is a scenic valley squeezed between Purple Mountain and the eastern summits of MacGillicuddy's Reeks. In the summer, it can be a bottleneck crammed with coaches depositing crowds of day-trippers for one-hour pony-and-trap rides through the pass. Rather than joining the hordes, think about hiring a bike and cycling the route.

Carrauntoohil

Macgillycuddy's Reeks is Ireland's highest mountain range, and towering Carrauntoohil in the Killarney region is the country's highest summit, at 1040m (3412ft). There are several routes up, though even the most straightforward path requires good hillwalking and navigation skills, while others are serious scrambling or rock-climbing routes.

The Burren

Stretching across northern Clare, the rocky, windswept Burren region is a unique striated lunar-like landscape of barren grey limestone that was shaped beneath ancient seas, then forced high and dry by a great geological cataclysm. It covers 250 sq km  (97 sq mi) of exposed limestone and is 560 sq km (216 sq mi) in total.

Wildflowers in spring give the Burren brilliant, if ephemeral, color amid its stark beauty. Villages throughout the region include the music hub of Doolin on the west coast, Kilfenora inland and charming Ballyvaughan in the north, on the shores of Galway Bay.

Lough Glencar Waterfall

The poet WB Yeats is among those who've fallen for this 15m (49ft) tumbling torrent, set in the most beautiful area of Lough Glencar – it features in his poem The Stolen Child. There are astonishing views over the water, especially towards sunset; it's particularly impressive after heavy rain. There's a car park right at the foot of the hill.

Caves of Keash

Around 6km (3.7mi) southeast of Ballymote, these splendid limestone Caves of Keash high in Keshcorran Hill make for a fun expedition. You can park near the bottom at the fields at the foot of the slope and climb on up. It doesn't take long to reach the 16 caves, some of which are pretty deep, and afford excellent views over the countryside. Mind your step as it is steep and can be slippery after rain.

Lough Tay

Located in the Wicklow Mountains, Lough Tay (also known as Guinness Lake) is backed by steep scree slopes descending from Luggala (Fancy Mountain). The picturesque valley is one of the areas most popular destinations and surrounded by spectacular countryside.

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From brooding ruins on windswept hills to restored masterpieces, Ireland’s castles can be looked at, walked through, clambered over, dined in – and even slept in! With around 3000 castles spread across the country, you'll be spoiled for choice if you decide to check out a few. Here are 11 of our favorites.

Editor's note: check local travel restrictions and opening times before booking a trip and always follow government health advice.

1. Kilkenny Castle

Kilkenny Castle rises above the River Nore in Kilkenny and is one of Ireland’s most visited heritage sites. Stronghold of the powerful Butler family, it has a history dating back to the 12th century, though much of its present look dates from Victorian times. The first structure on this strategic site was a wooden tower built in 1172 by Richard Fitz Gilbert de Clare, the Anglo-Norman conqueror of Ireland better known as Strongbow.

In 1192, Strongbow's son-in-law, William Marshal, erected a stone castle with four towers, three of which still survive. The castle was bought by the powerful Butler family (later earls and dukes of Ormonde) in 1391, and their descendants continued to live here until 1935. Maintaining the castle became such a financial strain that most of the furnishings were sold at auction. The property was handed over to the city in 1967 for the princely sum of 50 Irish punts.

2. Dublin Castle

Dublin Castle was the stronghold of British power in Ireland for more than 700 years, beginning with the Anglo-Norman fortress commissioned by King John in 1204. The castle was officially handed over to Michael Collins, representing the Irish Free State, in 1922.

Only the Record Tower (1258) survives from the original building, as most of what remains now was built from the 18th century onwards. The castle is now used by the Irish government for meetings and functions, and tours take in the State Apartments and St Patrick's Hall, where Irish presidents are inaugurated and foreign dignitaries toasted. The castle is home to the world-famous Chester Beatty Library.

3. Cahir Castle

Cahir Castle in Tipperary enjoys a riverside site with massive walls, a moat, turrets, towers and keep, mullioned windows, original fireplaces and a dungeon. Founded in 1142 and passed to the Butler family in 1375, it's one of Ireland's largest castles.

In 1599, the Earl of Essex shattered its walls with cannon fire. The castle, originally built to protect a salmon fishery and important river crossing, eventually surrendered to Cromwell in 1650 without a struggle. It is largely intact and still formidable. It was restored in the 1840s and again in the 1960s when it came under state ownership.

4. Dunguaire Castle

Dunguaire Castle in Galway is a chess-piece style castle erected around 1520 by the O’Hynes clan. It sits on the fringes of Kinvara on the former site of the 6th century royal palace of Guaire Aidhne, the king of Connaught. The castle passed into the hands of the Martyns of Galway in the early 17th century. Dunguaire was bought and renovated by Oliver St. John Gogarty, the famous surgeon and literary figure, in 1924.

It became the venue for meetings of the literary revivalists such as W.B. Yeats, his patron Lady Gregory, George Bernard Shaw, Edward Martin and J.M. Synge. In 1954, the castle was acquired by Christabel, Lady Ampthil, who completed the restoration started by Gogarty after buying it for the equivalent of €500 ($586). She lived there from the 1950s to the 1970s, and the castle is now the property of Shannon Heritage.

5. Rock of Cashel

The Rock of Cashel in Tipperary is an ancient fortified home of kings and one of Ireland's most spectacular historic sites. Sturdy walls circle an enclosure containing a round tower and a 13th century Gothic cathedral. The undoubted highlight is the early-12th-century Cormac's Chapel, an exquisite gem of Romanesque architecture with beautifully carved doorways and the precious remains of colorful wall paintings.

In the 4th century, it was chosen as a base by the Eóghanachta clan from Wales, later known as the MacCarthys, who lost possession to the O'Brien tribe under Brian Ború's leadership. In 1101, King Muircheartach O'Brien presented the Rock to the Church to curry favour with the powerful bishops and to end secular rivalry over possession of the Rock with the Eóghanachta. It's a five-minute stroll from the town centre up to the Rock, from where fantastic view over the Tipperary countryside can be enjoyed.

6. St John's Castle

King John's Castle in Limerick was built on the orders of King John of England between 1200 and 1212. It is considered to be one of the best-preserved Norman castles in Europe. Its massive twin gate towers still stand to their full height, and the armoury and its contents remain as evidence of the castle's turbulent history.

Limerick’s showcase castle is best viewed from the west bank of the River Shannon. The site on which the castle stands has been occupied for over 1000 years, and a number of houses believed to be Viking in origin were unearthed during earlier restorations of the castle. Elements of these dwellings and some artefacts found on site can be seen at King John's Castle visitors' centre.

7. Blarney Castle

Blarney Castle in Cork is a 16th-century tower set in gorgeous grounds, popular for its Fern Garden, Arboretum, Poison Garden and Rock Close. While the site dates back to the 10th century, the castle seen today was built by Lady Colthurst in 1874.

Crowds flock to the castle to kiss the Blarney Stone, which is said to be a former altar stone brought back from the Crusades. One of Ireland’s most popular tourist attractions, it is rumored to grant “the gift of the gab” to those who kiss it. In these virus-conscious times, an eco-friendly, World Health Organization-approved cleanser is used to clean the stone after each kiss.

8. Ross Castle

Ross Castle in Kerry dates to the 15th century, when it was a residence of the O'Donoghue family. It was the last stronghold in Munster to hold out against Cromwell, and was eventually taken by General Ludlow in 1652. It sits on the edge of Killarney’s lower lake and came into the hands of the Brownes who became the Earls of Kenmare. They owned an extensive portion of the lands that are now part of Killarney National Park.

Legend has it that O’Donoghue still exists in a deep slumber under the waters of Lough Leane, and he rises and circles the lake on his white horse on the first morning of May every seven years. Anyone catching sight of him is said to be assured of good fortune for the rest of their lives. The large rock at the entrance to the bay is known as O’Donoghue’s prison.

9. Trim Castle

Trim Castle in Trim was Ireland's largest Anglo-Norman fortification, and was founded by Hugh de Lacy in 1173 and destroyed by Ruaidrí Ua Conchobair, Ireland's last high king, within a year. The building seen today was begun around 1200 and has hardly been modified since.

By the 16th century, the castle had begun to fall into decline and in 1649, when the town was taken by Cromwellian forces, it was severely damaged. The castle's grassy two-hectare enclosure is dominated by a massive stone keep, mounted on a Norman motte. It briefly returned to its former glory in 1996 as a location for Mel Gibson’s Braveheart, where it was the setting for Edinburgh Castle, York Castle and the Tower of London.

10. Ashford Castle

Ashford Castle in Mayo was once owned by the Guinness family of stout fame. Located along the Wild Atlantic Way, the castle was built on the perimeter of a monastic site in 1228 by the Anglo-Norman de Burgos family on a 350-acre estate on the shores of Lough Corrib.

It has had various owners over the centuries, including the Bingham, Browne and Guinness families, and various additions have been made to the buildings and grounds. John Ford's famous film, The Quiet Man, starring John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara was shot on the grounds and in nearby Cong in 1959, and many of the stars stayed at the castle. Now a five-star luxury hotel, it was the setting for golfer Rory McIlroy's marriage to Erica Stoll.

11. Donegal Castle

Donegal Castle guards a picturesque bend of the River Esque in Donegal. It was built by the O'Donnells in 1474, and served as the seat of their formidable power until 1607. The castle was rebuilt in 1623 by Sir Basil Brooke, along with the adjacent three-storey Jacobean house.

The building complex fell into ruin in the 20th century, and was further restored in the 1990s. Highlights include the magnificent upstairs Great Hall with its vast and ornate fireplace, French tapestries and Persian rugs.

This article was first published in April 2010 and was updated October 2020. Additional research by Heather Howard.

These 11 Irish castles showcase the dramatic beauty of historic Ireland

It’s a well-accepted travel truth: some destinations are even more impressive in person than they seem to be in photos and video, and others fail to live up to their billing.

But for every Grand Canyon – breathtaking in scale and scope, a real gut-punch upon first glance, no matter how many times you’ve seen it in books or online – there’s a Times Square, frustratingly crowded and criminally overhyped. From Rome to Beijing, here are seven places that don’t need to be shoehorned into your itinerary – and where to go instead.

1. Times Square – New York City

Between the Statue of Liberty, the Empire State Building, and Rockefeller Center, New York is home to a number of attractions that are arguably better admired from afar than up close, and Times Square, with its maddening crush of gawping out-of-towners, is perhaps the best example. If you can’t resist seeing what the hype is all about, pass through at night when the neon glitz is in full effect... and then make like a local and get out as fast as you can.

The alternative: Go gallery-hopping in Chelsea, catch a show in Williamsburg, graze your way through the Lower East Side, or simply take a stroll through Central Park – really, anywhere but here.

2. Mona Lisa at the Louvre – Paris

Last year, a survey revealed that some 1700 Britons consider the Mona Lisa the most overrated tourist attraction in Europe – a harsh assessment but probably a fair one, especially if you’re visiting just to see that enigmatic smile in person. The Louvre has other treasures in its collection, both lesser-known and highly acclaimed, but the crowds pile up in front of Da Vinci’s iconic work, and it can be tough to catch an unobstructed glimpse – though to be honest, there isn’t much to differentiate the original from the reproductions you’ve seen a gazillion times.

The alternative: Instead of jockeying for space in front of the painting and then calling it a day, broaden your approach: Beyoncé and Jay-Z filmed the video for their song “Apeshit” at the Louvre in 2018, and the museum has a visitor’s trail that hits the highlights, so you’ll spot the star attraction plus a host of other notable pieces as well.

3. Trevi Fountain – Rome

The waterworks made famous by Fellini’s La Dolce Vita and Frank Sinatra’s “Three Coins in the Fountain,” the Trevi is one of modern-day Rome’s most beloved sites – and it has the fanbase to match. Swarms of tourists make the pilgrimage to toss in their loose change on a daily basis, creating gridlock in the small piazza, causing damage to the fountain, and bringing out the touts and pickpockets who prey on those preoccupied with sightseeing and photo ops.

The alternative: To beat the crowds, go at sunrise or after dark when the lights show off designer Nicola Salvi’s skills, or focus on Rome’s other masterpieces instead, like Bernini’s Fontana del Tritone, Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, and St. Peter’s Square at the heart of Vatican City.

4. The Great Wall of China

When the Badaling section of the Great Wall reopened in March after months of shutdown, it was hailed as a sign that the coronavirus tide was slowly but surely turning. The Unesco World Heritage site is now operating at a limited capacity, but before the pandemic struck, that stretch of the Wall looked more like a tourist trap than one of the New 7 Wonders of the World. “These days,” Lonely Planet’s Tom O’Malley writes, Badaling ”feels like a tacky ski resort with its cable cars and souvenir stands,” and other sections near Beijing, like Mutianyu, Jinshanling and Simatai, suffer the same fate.

The alternative: It’s a bucket-list destination, so don’t skip it entirely; instead, venture away from China’s capital and link up with a hiking group for a more intimate, less tame approach.

5. Blarney Stone – County Cork, Ireland

Bending over backwards to plant one on a piece of rock that millions of other lips have touched has never been a tradition for the squeamish or germaphobic, especially considering that the potential payoff is just receiving the gift of gab (and catching some pretty nice views of the surrounding countryside from the castle walls). But busloads of people pass through and pucker up each day, and after a brief three-month ban, kissing the Blarney Stone is allowed again – a much less appealing proposition mid-pandemic, even with social distancing, mandatory PPE, and a bevy of stringent cleaning protocols in place.

The alternative: If you must visit a stone of some sort, the Rock of Cashel – a sprawling ancient fortress with a Gothic cathedral, Romanesque chapel, and beautiful views of Tipperary – is the way to go.

6. Four Corners Monument – Southwestern US

A gimmicky designation for the only place in the US where four states meet at a single point, the Four Corners Monument marks the shared border between Arizona, New Mexico, Utah and Colorado – inaccurately, for the record. The Navajo Nation Tribal Park is currently closed until further notice due to COVID, but aside from a market selling native artwork and the monument itself, a quartered circle embedded in the ground at the states’ intersection, there’s not much here anyway, including water or electricity.

The alternative: Explore the four states themselves – in northwestern New Mexico, Chaco Culture National Historical Park highlights the remnants of an ancient civilization; in southwestern Colorado, Ute Mountain Tribal Park features petroglyphs, cliff dwellings, and other archaeological sites; southeastern Utah’s Hovenweep National Monument boasts six prehistoric Puebloan villages perched on canyon rims; and in northern Arizona, the vibrant sandstone formations of Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park lend an otherworldly air to the landscape.

7. Stonehenge – Wiltshire, England

A two-hour drive from London, England’s seminal stone circle is a major stop on the tourist-bus route, receiving more than a million visitors a year, so unless you spring for one of the small-group experiences before or after normal business hours, you’ll be making your way around the mysterious sarsens with plenty of company – and that’s not exactly the most nurturing environment to foster a mystical connection.

The alternative: The UK has a plethora of neolithic stone structures, from Cornwall’s Merry Maidens to Pentre Ifan in Wales, all less-visited than Stonehenge, and there are numerous ancient sites around the world with similar connections to the equinoxes and solstices, including Mexico’s Teotihuacán and Spiro Mounds in Oklahoma.

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7 attractions you should skip (and where to head instead)

The pandemic may have put a stop to offline dating, but it hasn’t got in the way of a rumored romance between Normal People star Paul Mescal and singer Phoebe Bridgers. The pair were reportedly spotted together on a breakfast date last week in the picturesque town of Kinsale in Mescal’s native Ireland.

The actor, who just received an Emmy nomination for his role in the hit drama adaptation of Sally Rooney’s bestselling novel, traveled from his home in London to County Cork, where he posed for a photo with the manager of Actons Hotel.

“We in Actons Hotel treat all of our guests as #normalpeople,” the hotel said in a Facebook post. “It was an absolute pleasure to have you Paul. Enjoy the rest of your time in Kinsale.”

The following day, the Lemon Leaf Cafe revealed on Twitter that Mescal and Bridgers had stopped by for breakfast, calling them “such amazing talented young people”.

Fan- Tas- Tic day thanks to @mescal_paul and @phoebe_bridgers for calling to our café this morning for breakfast. Such amazing talented young people #Celebrities #musicaltalent #Staycation2020 #breakfast #voiceofageneration pic.twitter.com/h5wgclzs5y
— Lemon Leaf Cafe (@lemonleafcafe) July 23, 2020

In an interview with NME, Bridgers described how they had followed each other on Instagram after she watched Normal People, and in May, the pair took part in a live-streamed interview for Wonderland magazine. Bridgers, 25, is based in Los Angeles, while Mescal, 24, is originally from Maynooth, County Kildare, although he moved to east London shortly before the lockdown.

Ireland's most romantic getaways

Mescal and Bridgers haven’t confirmed their relationship, and though there are no photos from their joint visit, Lemon Leaf Cafe owner Tracey Keoghan told news site CorkBeo that the pair were “absolutely delightful”.

The daytime spot is a favorite with tourists and locals alike, serving breakfast, brunch and lunch in the heart of the town. Over the decades, Kinsale has transformed itself from a sleepy fishing village to a foodie destination, packed with gourmet bistros, cool cafes and high-end restaurants including the Michelin-starred Bastion. Seafood is, naturally, a specialty in the area.

The West Cork town is also known for its pretty scenery and narrow, winding streets, loaded with personality and charm. In 1601, it was the site of the Battle of Kinsale, and served as a garrison town and port of consequence for more than 300 years. Its Georgian and Victorian architecture has been lovingly maintained, and visitors can spend hours exploring the town and admiring the slate-clad buildings on the waterfront.

There are a number of sandy beaches with romantic hidden coves to roam, or lovebirds may enjoy a scenic stroll along the coast on the Scilly Walk, overlooking the harbour and the town, with plenty of stops on the way for a cosy pint or a tasty meal.

The hike leads to the Charles Fort, a star-shaped fort built in the 1670s to guard the harbor. It is still one of the largest military installations in the country, and the well-preserved ruins are worth a wander. Elsewhere, history buffs can follow a heritage trail or take a guided tour to learn more about Kinsale’s past, including the sinking of the Lusitania in 1915.

During the warmer months, Kinsale becomes a popular festival hub, starting with the Point to Point racing festival over the June bank holiday and stretching through Kinsale Arts Weekend and the Regatta in high summer, before the three-day Gourmet Festival in early October.

The nearest airport to Kinsale is in Cork. There are connecting flights from Dublin Airport, or visitors can travel from the capital by bus, train or car.

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Fans of Taylor Swift were delighted last week when the pop star released her surprise new album, Folklore. The record was accompanied by a photo shoot, styled by Swift herself, featuring the singer posing in a turtleneck Aran-style sweater. The classic knit has long been established as a fashion icon, but it originates from a cluster of islands off the wind-battered west coast of Ireland.

The three Aran Islands – Inishmore (the largest of the three, which translates as “big island”), Inishmaan and Inisheer – lie at the mouth of Galway Bay, and offer visitors the most Irish of Irish experiences: lush green fields, breathtaking cliffs, prehistoric churches and the occasional traditional music session.

Yes, we can confirm that an Aran sweater is absolutely guaranteed to make anyone look like @taylorswift13 or @ChrisEvans. #Folklore pic.twitter.com/t7itY0Mva9
— Embassy of Ireland USA (@IrelandEmbUSA) July 23, 2020

Aran sweaters

Early Celtic islanders are thought to have inspired the intricate designs commonly seen in Aran sweaters. Legend has it that each of these stitches has its own special meaning: the cable stitch, for example, is believed to bring luck, while the diamond represents success, and the moss stitch is said to symbolise nature and growth.

Historians still debate when the Aran sweater was first created, though islanders began selling them to shops on the mainland in the early 1900s. The sweaters were originally made to protect the island’s fishers and farmers, and were designed to keep them warm as they braved the crashing waves.

The image of a fisherman tucked up in his Aran sweater, sailing his traditional currach boat off the craggy coastline, may recall an idyllic picture from a storybook, though the reality is rather less cozy – and with a rather more pungent smell.

Aran sweaters were typically made from thick, undyed sheep’s wool, which was unscoured to retain its natural oil, lanolin. This ensured the sweater would be water-repellent and remain warm even when wet, a necessary requirement when faced with changeable Irish weather. Knitting the sweaters involved little equipment and helped to develop skills that could be passed down through generations.

In 1934, Robert Flaherty’s documentary Man of Aran brought global attention to the islands, and by the mid-century, the Aran sweater had garnered a starry fanbase, worn by the likes of Grace Kelly, Steve McQueen and Marilyn Monroe. Aran-style knitwear is a regular fixture on modern catwalks and on screens big and small – before Taylor Swift, the knit went viral in 2019 following an appearance on actor Chris Evans in hit film Knives Out.

Today, the Aran Islands have a population of about 1200. The residents are predominantly Irish speakers, as the islands are an official Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking region). It is busier during the summer months, when tourists and day-trippers flock to explore the islands’ rugged landscape and unique heritage by foot or bicycle.

There are few sheep left on the islands now, and many of the Aran sweaters that are sold commercially are machine-knit, while handmade sweaters are rarer and more valuable – it takes up to 60 hours to complete a classic Aran. Yet the sweater is regarded as a national treasure and a worldwide symbol of Ireland, highlighting the country’s rich tradition of craftsmanship.

The sweaters are still knit by hand on the islands, although the waxy lanolin is washed out and the coarse wool is often mixed with cashmere, alpaca and merino for a softer finish.

Inishmore

Inishmore is home to the only town, Kilronan, and boasts a wealth of striking ruins, including the beautifully preserved Dun Aengus fort, perched atop a 100m cliff, and Na Seacht dTeampaill (the Seven Churches), which are really two churches accompanied by a number of monastic dwellings. Inishmore is also known for its sandy beaches and stunning views of the Cliffs of Moher, not to mention TedFest, the annual celebration of all things from the TV show Father Ted.

Inishmaan

Inishmaan, the middle of the three islands, is also the least densely populated and the quietest during the tourist season. It was for many years a retreat for the Irish writer JM Synge, who immortalized the islands and their namesake sweater in his play Riders to the Sea. One of the most visited historical sites on the island, a cairn known as Synge’s Chair, is named after him. In addition to the ruins, Inishmaan has recently become a popular spot for divers.

Inisheer

Inisheer, by comparison, is just 1.8 miles by 1.8 miles (3km by 3km) wide, and trad music is a central part of its cultural life. As well as taking in a trad session in the local pub, visitors are drawn to the island’s 10th century “ sunken church ”, the rusted Plassy shipwreck and over 1200 miles (2000km) of gorgeous dry stone walls.

Getting there

Ferries to the Aran Islands depart from Rossaveal port in Connemara, with shuttle buses available from Galway city. Tickets must be booked online in advance, to comply with COVID-19 regulations.

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The islands that inspired Taylor Swift’s cozy Folklore sweater

Being in social isolation doesn't stop us dreaming of all the places we'd like to visit; in fact now we've got even more time to daydream. Escape on a virtual vacation to bring a little piece of Ireland to your living room.

The smell of the ground after rain, the warm murmur of laughter and conversation in a packed pub, the salty tang of butter melting into fresh soda bread; these are the things you need to experience in person. But until you can travel again, immerse yourself in the best movies, novels, virtual reality or even get creative in the kitchen to build up your excitement for the next trip.

Our editors independently select the best products to help you have amazing experiences. If you purchase through links on our site, Lonely Planet may earn a commission from the retailer.

Best movies

History lovers:
Black '47: Shot in the style of a Western, a soldier seeks revenge for the cruel treatment of his family during the Irish Famine.
The Wind that Shakes the Barley : This Ken Loach-directed drama follows two brothers through the War of Independence and the Civil War.
Hunger : Arguably the best performance of Michael Fassbender's career, an utterly devastating portrait of one of Northern Ireland's most painful episodes

Comedies :
Waking Ned : an entire village conspires to hide the death of a lottery winner in the hopes of splitting the money. An absolute classic.
The Guard : Brendan Gleeson's unconventional police officer pairs up with Don Cheadle's FBI agent for a buddy cop movie with a twist.
Handsome Devil : two dramatically different teenagers become best friends at an elite boarding school in Dublin.

Romance :
The Quiet Man : this romantic view of Ireland through an American lens may not be the most accurate but its sweeping view of the landscape and charismatic leads make for a dreamy afternoon's viewing.
Once : two buskers fall in love while walking the streets of Dublin after dark.
Sing Street : a teenager in 1980s Dublin tries to impress a girl by setting up a band.

Listen

The newest urban street sounds:

Traditional Irish songs:

Best Novels

Contemporary classics:
Normal People - Sally Rooney : two students attending Trinity College navigate love and class.
The Spinning Heart - Donal Ryan : the economic collapse of the early 21st century is the catalyst for tension and drama in a rural Irish village.
Milkman - Anna Burns : a unique narration evokes the tribal tensions that invade personal lives during the Troubles in Northern Ireland.

Shorter reads:
Young Skins - Colin Barrett : an intertwined collection of short stories of modern rural life.
100 Poems - Seamus Heaney : 100 of the Nobel Laureate's most cherished poems
Notes to Self - Emilie Pine : a raw collection of essays that was an Irish bestseller last year

Best Podcasts

Candelit Tales: A podcast celebrating the rich history of Irish mythology.

West Cork: A Serial-style investigation into the murder of Sophie Toscan du Plantier and its effect on the idyllic locale of West Cork (available on Audible).

The Irish Passport: for anyone interested in current affairs with a blend of history and culture.

Food

Warm and comforting, every Irish granny has a different recipe for the perfect Irish stew (and everybody prefers their own). Try your hand at Dublin coddle in this recipe on how to make Irish stew.

Best Videos

Drinks

The warmth of the coffee, coldness of the cream and kick of whiskey make an Irish coffee the perfect end to a meal (or start to a day, depending on how you're feeling). Make it yourself with our recipe for the perfect Irish coffee.

Cultural Highlights

The Long Room library in Trinity College

National Gallery of Ireland

Epic Landscapes

The Cliffs of Moher

Ailwee Caves

Shop Online

Do some online browsing with these Irish shops who ship internationally (please note there may be some delays or restrictions due to COVID-19).

Jam Art Factory - Irish prints, cards and gifts from a variety of local artists

Standún - knitwear (including Aran Sweaters), handmade jewellery, local artwork

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Countless couples and families all around the world have been deeply affected by the spread of COVID-19 (coronavirus). Many people have found themselves in quarantine far from home, or in a situation where they are separated from loved ones, unsure of when they will see each other again. James Gabriel Martin on the challenges of staying positive while being separated from his partner in another country.

Plans change

Just three months ago, myself and my partner Celia were sitting on a sunny terrace in Granada, sipping coffee and anxiously discussing what at the time seemed like a big life event; our families meeting for the first time. Her mother and father were due to fly to Ireland from their home country of Spain for a few days in March, and we were running through a list of exciting decisions and questions. Should we book a restaurant, or do dinner in my parents’ house? Would it be awkward? Would we get over the language barrier? Little did we know that questions such as these would seem trivial when the time actually came and flights began to be cancelled en masse.

Celia and I met in Dublin over two years ago, and some time afterwards moved into an apartment together. As a photojournalist and musician, my work takes me to a lot of different places, but we have always managed to be in the same city for the vast majority of the time, or else travel together whenever possible. Last year, Celia moved back to Spain to do a photography course and concentrate on writing a book. It wasn’t a problem for us, and I was lucky enough to be able to split my time between Dublin and Granada. But when Spain was hit hardest by the coronavirus, things rapidly changed, and I was back home in the middle of a tour with my band, an ocean apart from the woman I loved.

Making difficult decisions

From following the news in Spain, we knew that we had a limited window of opportunity to make a decision before flights in and out of the country would be completely closed down. Celia’s family home was further south in a small, sleepy town by the sea. She weighed up the prospect of going there against coming back to Ireland to weather this storm together. I advised her that wherever she did end up, she would have to be prepared to stay there for at least three months. At the time, Andalucía had the lowest number of cases of any province, but we knew that travel was still putting ourselves and, more importantly, others at risk.

We had to have a difficult conversation. There was our relationship to think about, on top of countless other responsibilities. I wanted to stay with my parents in Dublin to make sure I could be by their side if they needed anything. Celia felt the same, but her family reassured her that they would be alright and encouraged her to go. So, she booked the last available flight and a plan was put in place. I would get supplies and meet her at Dublin airport. When her flight touched down, I would collect her and we would drive directly to my aunt’s cottage in Donegal to self-isolate for two weeks in case she had been exposed in transit. We knew that although we would be exposing ourselves to possible infection following passage through Spain, we could not risk the health of my parents or any member of the public.

This was something that weighed heavily on us, and the morning of the flight, we both knew we couldn’t go through with it. While there would be a great comfort of knowing that we could be together, we knew that we would be constantly on edge thinking about our families and what lay ahead.

Adjusting to distance

Since we made the decision to stay in separate countries through self-isolation and quarantine sanctions, myself and Celia have sought ways to stay connected and bonded.  Before the outbreak, Celia’s book Nacimos a un Océano de Distancia had been published and was selling well in Spain, and we were excited by the idea of working on an English translation together. Now we keep a weekly schedule, making our way through the chapters. It gives us a chance to focus our attention on something together, and turn the conversation away from news cycles and the daily anxieties of life. When we’re finished she is going to start teaching me Spanish over Skype.

We are thankful that technology has made it easier to stay connected and make time every evening for a video call. Before all of this, we loved travelling together, and recently I have been starting every morning by sending Celia a WhatsApp Message with a memory of a past adventure.

It will read, for example: “Today’s Memory: Being jammed into the back of a rickety yellow taxi that was missing the inside panels on the doors on a three-hour drive across Cuba. The radio in the front seat blasting as we watch the dusty urban roads transform to lush green fields as we enter Viñales.” It reminds me of how lucky I have been up to this point, and I hope that it inspires Celia to have faith that new experiences await us in the future.

Staying positive

Like everyone else around the world, the past few weeks have seen us taking a crash course in adapting to situations outside of our control on a leviathan scale. Every day the headlines scare us, especially the ones from Spain. But we have been lucky so far, and are trying our best to be hopeful, and to remember that we will be together again, we will travel again, hugs will be had, laughs will be shared. Families will meet, and perhaps we will grow into better, more appreciative people in the end.

Back when we shared a home in Dublin, myself and Celia had a canvas map hanging on the wall. It was stuck with pins of the places we had been together. It’s now in my childhood bedroom in my parents’ house, and I look at it every day. I reflect on where we have been and where we might go. On the map, the distance between us doesn’t look so far.

Keep up to date with Lonely Planet's latest travel-related COVID-19 news here.

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