Top things to do

Top Choice Teahouse in Shiraz

Seray-e Mehr Teahouse & Restaurant

This is a serendipitous place to find after wandering through the Bazar-e Vakil. Hidden away through a small door behind the Saray-e Moshir Bazar, the split-level teahouse has a small menu of tasty favourites (think…
Top Choice Iranian in Shiraz

Shater Abbas 1

The bustling open kitchen and hard-working waiters attest to the popularity of this long-standing favourite. Enter from the street, descend the stairs into the basement and claim one of the large tables clad in chee…
Top Choice Iranian in Tabriz


Fish, fish, fish. Fresh whole fish, fish kababs, fish köfte balls in the US$3 salad bar, fishing nets on the ceiling, little aquariums between the tables and even fish-shaped souvenir pens. Standards are excellent, …
Top Choice Teahouse in Ardabil

Sofrakhane Sonati Ebrahimabad

This hidden, fabulously renovated 640-year-old former hammam oozes atmosphere with three domed chambers each more magnificent than the last. Local speciality pichag qeimeh (tender lamb, diced almonds, caramelised on…
Top Choice Iranian in Gorgan

Sofrakhane Sonati Darvish

In a 300-year-old domed chamber hung with ships’ wheels and lanterns, the Darvish is by far Gorgan’s most intriguing restaurant…if you can find it. Menus are limited but the kababs are superlatively succulent. Aroun…
Top Choice Bazaar in Tabriz

Tabriz Bazaar

The magnificent, labyrinthine covered bazaar covers some 7 sq km with 24 separate caravanserais and 22 impressive timchehs (domed halls). Construction began over a millennium ago, though much of the fine brick vault…
Iranian in Shiraz

Haji Baba Restaurant

The waiters at this place certainly earn their wage, rushing up and down the stairs to serve a constant stream of customers. The khoresht and the fried white fish are better than the kababs, which can be disappointi…
Sweets in Shiraz

Mahdi Faludeh

Opposite the Arg-e Karim Khan, Mahdi is the most famous faludeh shop in Shiraz. It also sells delicious bastani (Persian ice cream).
Iranian in Shiraz

Sharzeh Traditional Restaurant

This place can be hard to find, but is worth the effort. Enter down an arcade off the western side of the small street leading from Zand Ave directly to the Masjed-e Vakil. The restaurant is in the basement of the a…
Mausoleum in Shiraz

Aramgah-e Hafez

Iranians have a saying that every home must have two things: first the Quran, then a collection of the works of Hafez. And in reality, many would reverse that order. Hafez the poet is an Iranian folk hero – loved, r…