Top things to do

Top Choice Teahouse in Tehran

Azari Traditional Teahouse

Just north of the train station on the west side of Valiasr (opposite Book City), this restored ‘coffeehouse’ in south Tehran is wonderfully atmospheric because it remains popular with locals, who use it as an unoff…
Top Choice Gilani in Tehran


Tiny, no-frills Khoshbin is an institution among Tehranis, who cram onto the fast-turnover tables for an authentic Gilaki (food from the Gilan region) lunch. Usually known as Hassan Rashti, after the restaurant foun…
Top Choice Asian in Tehran


Long-running Monsoon still has a well-deserved reputation for the city’s best modern Asian food. The fare ranges from Thai curries to Chinese noodle dishes, though the sushi isn’t so hot. It’s smart, sophisticated, …
Top Choice Cafe in Tehran

Cafe Haftad-o Hasht

A good place to get in touch with Tehran’s hip young artistic community is this cafe near Park-e Honar Mandan and other galleries. The coffee, wide range of teas, snacks, service and conversation are all good.
Top Choice Indian in Tehran


Cingari is the pick of the Indian restaurants because it gets the Mughlai cuisine just right, the drinks list is exotic nonalcoholic and the slick setting and service would be at home in Sydney or London. There are …
Top Choice Cultural Centre in Tehran

Iranian Artists' Forum

One of lots of galleries around this part of Tehran, this is something of an art hub, with eight gallery spaces over two levels exhibiting works in all media on a monthly rotation. There's also a cracking shop, a ve…
Ice Cream in Tehran

Akbar Mashti Bastani

Akbar Mashti became famous for his ice cream in the 1950s and today his son continues to sell what he modestly describes as ‘the most famous ice cream in Iran and the world’. Try the pistachio bastani (US$1.50) and …
Vegetarian in Tehran

Ananda Vegetarian Restaurant & Coffee Shop

Up in north Tehran, the Ananda is a gem if you’re a vegetarian, and delightful even if you’re not. It’s run in association with the Iranian Society of Vegetarians, so you won’t find any rogue meat here. We can recom…
Iranian in Tehran

Armenian Club

The Armenian Club is almost a one-off in Tehran. Because it’s a Christian establishment, women can legally eat or just hang out sans hejab (clothes that cover hair, arms and legs and disguise your body shape). Which…
International in Tehran


Reputed as Tehran’s best restaurant, Bistango’s air of sophistication and relatively adventurous international cuisine keep Tehranis coming. Service can be a little exclusive if you’re not in a suit, but the food is…