Agha Bozorg

Teahouse in Tehran

Tucked away down an ornately tiled staircase, this cosy underground teahouse is full of young Iranians flirting, drinking tea, smoking hookahs and eating (in that order) under attractive vaulted and tiled ceilings. The Iranian food is reliably good (mains IR130,000 to IR350,000), particularly the dizi (lamb, potato and chickpea stew).