Teahouse in Rayen

West of Imam St at the Imamzadeh Shirekhoda roundabout, Qarbi St rises past a series of older, mud-domed homes. Many are derelict, but near the top (250m) one of these timeless structures is now used as a tea garden that makes a pleasant place for puffing qalyan on a summer evening.

The basic sub-rooms have floor-seating and can double as very inexpensive accommodation (d/q IR300,000/500,000) if you don't mind the minimal facilities – and burbling conversation from fellow smokers that is likely to continue late into the evening.